Magical Ley Line Landmarks 3 day Itinerary

A century ago local man Alfred Watkins had an extraordinary revelation that straight tracks criss-crossed the landscape, connecting ancient and spiritual sites. He christened them ley lines and for decades since his theory has ignited interest.

Kentchurch Estate makes a fantastic base to tour historic ley line landmarks, from ancient castles to secluded churches. It’s a very scenic way to spend a few days in the Golden Valley and beyond.

DORE ABBEY, CREDIT VISIT HEREFORDSHIRE

Day 1

Start at the red sandstone Kilpeck Church (5 miles away), famed for its stunning medieval carvings – the work of the Herefordshire School of Romanesque Sculpture. They range from the humorous to the rather racy! The church sits on a ley line with Kilpeck Castle, a few steps away. Only ruined walls remain but it’s a lovely peaceful spot and you’ll often see the distinctive Hereford cattle in the nearby fields.

Next, drive 5 miles to Dore Abbey. This was once one of the principal Cistercian monasteries in England, with a ley line said to run from this secluded spot to Canterbury Cathedral, via Gloucester Cathedral, Downing Street, Greenwich and Rochester Cathedral. Inside take in the wall paintings, an original stone altar and a wooden carved screen which is the work of John Abel, a 17th-century craftsman known as the King’s Carpenter.

It’s a delightful 15-minute journey on to Clodock, with panoramic views, a steep incline and even a little ford to cross along the way. The village church is an early, unrestored example, with a three-decker pulpit, with the pretty River Monnow running alongside. It feels a world away from everyday life.

Just up the road (1 mile), you’ll find Longtown Castle which sits in the shadow of the imposing Black Mountains. Strategically located to resist Welsh invasion, you can climb the cylindrical keep to enjoy fantastic views. Watkins was convinced that many important ley lines connected to the castle and there’s definitely a sense of centuries of history.

SNODHILL CASTLE, CREDIT visit Herefordshire

Day 2

Today’s tour begins in Michaelchurch Escley (30 mins away), another lovely village, this time situated on the banks of Escley Brook. The simple church features a Roman altar, the remains of 13th-century wall paintings and some fine woodwork. In the fields nearby, there’s a standing stone known as Wern Derys  – the King’s Stone – which is 7ft9 tall.

St Margaret’s Church (HR2 0QW) is a 10 minute drive, a favourite of John Betjeman thanks to its remote location and delicately carved screen, which dates from 1520 and is an amazing survivor of the post reformation order which demanded that all such works should be destroyed.

Only 8 minutes away is Vowchurch Church, also set on the banks of a river, only this time the Dore. Look for the celebrated Adam and Eve carvings and read the display about Lewis Carroll’s brother who was vicar here. 

It’s then another gorgeous drive, looking out across rolling fields and hills, through Peterchurch to reach Snodhill Castle. It’s one of the largest and oldest Norman castles in the country but it nearly disappeared. Private owners neglected it for many years until it become so covered in thicket that it was completely inaccessible – our very own Sleeping Beauty’s castle! Luckily it was saved in 1998 when ownership transferred to a local charity, which cleared the overgrowth and started exploring the remains. Turns out it was once a unique 12-sided High Keep with a twin turreted entrance, as well as unusually elaborate defences and high-status accommodation. There is something special about the castle and its views, which is perhaps why Watkins believed that the castle was aligned with nearby Arthur’s Stone and Skirrid Fawr in Wales.

BREDWARDINE BRIDGE, CREDIT VISIT HEREFORDSHIRE

Day 3

The next morning, make for the other end of the ley line: Arthur’s Stone. This Neolithic burial tomb pre-dates Stonehenge by a millennium and has been the subject of much archaeological interest over recent years. Recent excavations have revealed that it was likely an important meeting place, set within a wider monumental landscape. It’s still a mystery but the views of the Black Mountains are sensational. Legend has it that it was here that King Arthur slew a giant who left the impression of his elbows on one of the stones as he fell. Whilst CS Lewis is said to have based Narnia’s stone table on Herefordshire’s huge slab of rock.

Just along from the pretty bridge, lies Bredwardine Church (2 miles away). It’s less dramatic but equally peaceful. Set above the River Wye, it was once the parish of Reverend Francis Kilvert, the Victorian clergyman famed for his country diaries. His tomb stands in the churchyard, alongside a carved lintel and the tombs of two medieval knights. If you follow the track in front of the church and around to the left, you can walk alongside the River, past two medieval fish ponds to reach the remains of Bredwardine Castle, a motte and bailey. Watkins said that the castle was on the Midsummer Sunrise Ley. 

Return to Kentchurch via Moccas Hill Wood (1.4 miles from Bredwardine), part of the Moccas Park National Nature Reserve. On one side of the ridge you can view the Golden Valley, then cross to the other side to look out over the spectacular Wye Valley. Amongst the ancient trees, a ley line runs to the Holy Well in Malvern and a Bronze Age barrow has also been discovered on the site. It’s a 15-minute or so walk to the ridge from the car park, and we highly recommend it.

To read more about Alfred Watkins and ley lines, see The Watkins Way.